Marengo Cave, Indiana

Next time you are in the Louisville area, it's worth taking the hour or so drive into Southern Indiana to visit the cave at Marengo. Although nowhere near as big as Kentucky's Mammoth Cave, Marengo certainly offers a fun way to spend an afternoon.

There are two basic tours of the cave, one lasting 45 minutes, the other an hour. I suggest taking both, as each explores one side of the cave, both meeting in the middle. Yes, you'll hear a lot of the same information twice, but the formations in each half are quite distinct due to different levels of humidity.

Our tour guide Sarah at the Dripstone Trail entrance. 

The cave was discovered by a young brother and sister in 1883. The Crystal Palace Tour will show the original entrance that they discovered and recreate their candlelight exploration, making you more than grateful for modern lighting.

By the turn of the 20th century, Marengo was a popular tourist destination and you will find many reminders of their visits, both in the gravity on the cave walls and through the damaged stalactites, broken off by many as souvenirs. It was even a popular site for dances in the years leading up to the Depression.

Now the site is a National Landmark, open daily for short tours and longer underground crawls.

So whether you're an experienced lover of the underground (such as I am) or if this is your first time, Marengo is worth a stop on your drive through Kentuckiana.

Reflections at Mirror Lake

Five of My Favorite Castles

Time for a quick photo show of some of the my favorite castles that I've visited around the world. In no particular order...

Leeds Castle, England
Photo by Ron Smith

Reportedly called the loveliest castle in the world, Leeds Castle in my home county of Kent is quite spectacular. It also is home to possibly the most difficult garden maze I've ever entered. No matter how many times you get lost or find yourself back at the entrance of the maze, do persevere (or get some kind soul who has found the middle to offer directions), because your exit is via an underground grotto devoted to Coleridge's Rime of the Ancient Mariner.

Schloss Linderhof, Germany
Photo courtesy of WikiCommons

Neuschwanstein may be the world's most photographed castle (I have yet to visit there), but tourists in Bavaria should not skip King Ludwig's other two castles. Linderhof is the smallest and was the only one to be completed during his lifetime. Originally a forester's lodge, it was developed into a magnificent palace, its rooms resplendently decorated with goldleaf. The Hall of Mirrors gives the illusion of a neverending walkway, while the magnificent gardens are home to an underground grotto (what is it with castles and grottos?) complete with lake and golden swan boat.

Chateau Villandry, France
Photo courtesy of WikiCommons

I've visited a number of chateaux in France's Loire Valley, but Villandry with its huge gardens is definitely my favorite. I like to imagine myself in period costume wandering through the manicured hedgerows - I have the same daydream when I visit the maze at Hampton Court Palace. This is no time to remind me of the impracticality of corsets and petticoats. This is my time to dream.

Matsumoto, Japan

During my three years in Japan, Matsumoto was always a popular destination for a day out, thanks in large part to its castle. Built in 1592, the castle is designated a National Treasure. Feel free to wander around by yourself or use one of the free local English-speaking guides. When my parents visited, we were shown around by a lively old man who loved to explain his theory that Star Wars was based entirely on Japanese history and culture! However you choose to explore, this is the place to relive your ninja daydreams.

Hever Castle, England

I'm English, so it would be all to easy for me to go on all day about castles and only those in the British Isles, and with good reason. We have some of the finest in the world. I'm also lucky enough to have grown up near so many of them: Leeds, Walmer, Deal with its Tudor Rose shape, Dover with its WWII headquarters buried deep beneath the white cliffs... and Hever. I'm being very restrained in only including two in this post, and Hever is my second. Whereas Leeds Castle was frequented by Henry VIII and his first wife Catherine of Aragon, Hever was the childhood home of Anne Bullen (better known as Boleyn). It is here among the 100+ acres of romantic landscaped gardens that the king wooed his second wife. There are two mazes here, a traditional yew, and a water maze which will prove great fun for kids. In many ways I prefer it to Leeds Castle.

Forget Your French Lessons - It's Byoolee!

Stately homes often conjure up images of stuffy old buildings, busloads of old people, and bored kids being dragged from room to room by their parents. And there's no doubt that I've visited my share of those (although I was the odd child who enjoyed these old houses).

Something old

Fortunately, though, Lord Montagu, ancestral owner of Beaulieu in England's New Forest is a savvy man. While many stately mansions struggle to attract visitors, Lord Montagu has helped Beaulieu become the ideal family day out, thanks in large part to his hobby. The avid car buff's sizable collection is on display to the public at the site's National Motor Museum, and what a collection it is. More than 250 vehicles and bikes can be seen, ranging from 19th century penny farthings to top of the range Formula One racers. And with many of them maintained in working order, you never know what you might come across being driven around the property grounds. Other vehicles in the collection include Chitty Chitty Bang Bang, some wonderfully nostalgic British vehicles, and Sir Donald Campbell's magnificent Bluebird, the vehicle that set a new World Land Speed Record in 1964.

The record breaking Bluebird

Americans have the Oscar Meyer hot dog; we had the Outspan Orange!

Every car should have room for rockets!

Still not enough to satisfy your thirst for incredible autos? Get to Beaulieu before February 2014 to enjoy the Bond in Motion exhibition, celebrating 50 years of our favorite British spy. From Aston Martins that have suffered the worst of crashes to the motorbikes from Skyfall, you can relive some of your best Bond moments with this wonderful collection. 

Elsewhere in the grounds, The World of Top Gear takes you behind the scenes of Britain's best-loved car show with a display of their more...eclectic... creations. 

But remember, this is also a stately home so lets leave the cars and talk about the house itself. Palace House has been home to the Montagu family since the 16th century. Still a family residence, only a few rooms are open to the public, but they offer a fascinating look into the history of the Montagus. If you're lucky, you can also catch one of the daily musical performances by members of staff.  

Children's playroom

Once you're done browsing the portraits, the formal gardens and the remains of Beaulieu Abbey provide opportunities for peaceful strolls and country picnics. 

Finally, don't forget to wander down to the village of Beaulieu where tourists, locals, and New Forest ponies all mingle - I can't recommend the chocolatier enough. 

Why You Should Skip Stonehenge

To some, what I am about to say will be sacrilege. I am going to tell you why you shouldn't bother visiting that ultimate image of old Britain: Stonehenge. Yes, I've been there and yes, I had a wonderful time, but would I recommend it?

No.

Better here than in the flesh?

In a perfect world, this would be your trip to Stonehenge, and incidentally, this is how my visit went. Arrive in Amesbury the night before and find somewhere to stay. Enjoy a pleasant meal ... ok this did NOT happen for us. We ended up at a Little Chef in the pouring rain eating sausage and mashed potato flakes that floated in a pool of greasy gravy while the woman at the next table changed her baby's diaper on the dining table and then threw the dirty diaper on the floor next to us so she could finish her meal!

But back to your ideal trip... enjoy a pleasant meal and retire for the night. The next morning you awake, bright-eyed and bushy-tailed. Having stayed so close to the Stonehenge site, you are the first to get there, and enjoy a peaceful half hour wandering among the stones, taking in the peace of the Salisbury Plains, before departing as the first tourist coaches arrive for the day.

We were lucky.

Here is how your day is more likely to go:

You stay in London, or perhaps the New Forest the night before. You wake, have a relaxed breakfast, and head to Salisbury. Several miles away, you suddenly stop, bogged down in traffic. Rush hour, perhaps? Nope. Stonehenge traffic. Forget looking at your map for an alternative route. If you are visiting in peak season, the roads are all backed up for several miles as tourists slow down to gawp, take pictures, and, if they're lucky, eventually reach the entrance to the parking lot. Locals must hate their daily commute with a passion.

Once you reach the site, you will be faced with a parking fee. If you pay to go into the attraction, this fee will be discounted off your ticket price. But the purpose of the fee is clearly to make sure that even those who want to stop, snap a picture, and maybe buy a souvenir without going in, still pay their share. So you decide to go in. You will pay what is really quite an exorbitant fee - £8 for adults - to see some rocks. Now don't get me wrong - Stonehenge is beautiful and historically significant, but it's much more beautiful on the postcards. Once you've paid your money, you realize that you are surrounded by hundreds of other tourists, all trying to get their pictures taken. Oh, and remember those images of it standing on an isolated plain? There are major roads running either side of the site. Peaceful reflection has been replaced by commercialism and hordes of people.

Where to go instead?

Woodhenge

Just a couple of miles down the road (but in the opposite direction of the Stonehenge-seeking traffic) is the far less well-known Woodhenge. Obviously the original wood has long since rotted away, to be replaced by concrete markers, and it is not as impressive visually as its stoney cousin. However, it is much more complete in layout, is virtually tourist free, offers wonderful views of the surrounding countryside, and is free.

Old Sarum

From there, head another couple of miles toward Salisbury for another English Heritage-owned site - Old Sarum. Entry is less than half the price of Stonehenge but I find the ruins of the fort much more interesting. The site once housed an Iron Age fort, which over the years, was rebuilt by Romans, Saxons, and Normans. In addition to viewing the remains of the castle which once stood here, you can also see the foundations of the area's original cathedral (while looking down at the more modern 12th century Salisbury Cathedral).

Foundations of the original cathedral

There are plenty of walking trails in and around the fort, offering stunning views on all sides.

Looking down across Salisbury and the Cathedral (home of the Magna Carta)

So ultimately, you could have a stressful time reaching an overcrowded and overpriced tourist attraction, or you could spend a few hours in a more relaxed, but just as interesting setting.

I know which one I'd choose.

Leiper's Fork, Tennessee

Continuing our non-country music visit to Nashville, just a short drive away is the historical town of Leiper's Fork. I have a liking for those little settlements that have now become havens for art galleries, antique shops, and weekend visitors, so this fit the bill perfectly.

Leiper's Creek Gallery

Not that I'll be spending much in any of the quaint galleries; the number of Lexuses and BMWs parked outside were an instant indicator that much of what I would find would be well beyond my price range.

Nevertheless, it's a charming little spot to browse, while away an hour or two, and enjoy a cold drink, not to mention engage in one of my favorite pastimes: people watching.

Spend an hour or two rocking on the porch at Leiper's Fork

Not a Country Music Fan? You Can Still Enjoy Nashville.

The last few months have seen me making multiple trips to Tennessee: with parents, with nieces, and just with hubby. This means there'll be more Tennessee posts to come but for now let's look at Nashville.

Think of Nashville and you think of country music, but what if you're not a country fan? Is there anything for you to do in town? That's what we asked ourselves when we were planning a weekend to visit a friend who happened to be in town for a week or two. I don't dislike country music but I'm not a real fan, by any means, and neither hubby nor our friend are into it. My concerns rose when I discovered that the weekend we planned to visit coincided with the CMAs. It was the biggest week of the year for the city and music fans, with concerts going on everywhere.

Yikes!

As it happens, we had a wonderful weekend, and with some careful avoidance of the downtown area and with the exception of a visit to Cooter's and Willie Nelson's Place (come on!), the only clue to a country music presence was the plethora of girls in what I refer to as Nashville uniform, ie. shorts and cowboy boots.

One place well worth a visit is the Lane Motor Museum. Car museums are nothing new and if you're into American muscle cars, you're better off driving up across the state line to the Corvette Museum in Bowling Green, KY. What makes the Lane Motor Museum different is that it is home to the largest collection of European cars in the US. All the classic British cars I grew up seeing at motor rallies are here, lovingly preserved and in full working condition.

A sporty little number

In addition to my beloved British MGs and, yes, a Reliant Robin (better known to most Americans as the three wheeler driven by Mr Bean), there are exhibits from Cold War Europe, France, Italy, and Germany, not to mention some Nissan retro concept vehicles, based upon early European models; electric cars (not as new as you might think); and some lesser known American vehicles, including a steam-powered monster of a car.

Each vehicle in the collection is accompanied by its individual story, which adds to the personality of the cars, while placing each one in a broader historical and economic context.

While you're at the museum, also take the time to explore the collection of motorcycles, the rather large (OK, it's enormous!) military vehicle parked out back, and the video that explains how a former bakery became a thoroughly interesting motor museum.

I am by no means a car fanatic. I can't tell you a thing about the inner workings of an engine. I did however, grow up in a family that still appreciates the look of a classic car. So whether you are, like me, someone who admires the shapes and paint job, or, like my husband, someone who works in the auto industry and so has a deeper appreciation of the entire manufacturing process, the Lane Motor Museum is a great place to spend a few hours.

The Lane Motor Museum is located  at 702 Murfreesboro Pike in Nashville. For opening hours and further details, visit their website.

How to Have a Travel Adventure Close to Home

I've mentioned before how one helpful way to deal with the readjustment-type culture shock when you return home after overseas travel is to immerse yourself in your local community and try to see it with new eyes. You will often be surprised how many fascinating places are right under your nose - those places you either never bothered with or that you didn't even know about.

Take, for example, Shaker Village, about 25 miles from Lexington.

I have lived here in Central Kentucky for almost twelve years,and have visited Shaker Village many times. But did I know about the hiking trails?

How did I miss this?

Only when some friends mentioned that they had been hiking out there, did I do some digging and discover the 3000 acre nature preserve. All this time, we'd just been looking around the historic buildings and learning about Shaker life.

Now I learn about miles of hiking trails, through forests, across prairies, seeing ruined mills, abandoned mines, and all sorts of natural habitats.

And it was right here all this time.

We spent Memorial Day exploring the preserve's Shawnee Run Trail, six miles that took us across several creeks (tread carefully and be prepared to get wet), past hidden waterfalls, and through beautiful vistas of rural Kentucky.

My only regret, apart from that I hadn't discovered this sooner: forgetting the bug spray. Ticks were abundant and, despite having spent a month in Africa with all manner of creatures, having to remove ticks grosses me out.