Showing posts with label Mexico. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Mexico. Show all posts

Saturday, July 28, 2012

Hotel Mirador, Mexico's Copper Canyon


Few hotels inspire you to sleep with the curtains open, let alone to get up before the crack of dawn while you’re on vacation. But you won’t want to miss the sunrise if you are staying at the Hotel Mirador in Mexico’s Barrancas del Cobre (Copper Canyon).

Watching the sunrise from our room.

Built into the wall of one of the area’s multiple canyons, all rooms at the Mirador face the same way, providing magnificent views that stretch for miles. The décor is simple and comfortable, designed to reflect the local style; but it is the region’s nature that makes a stay here feel truly luxurious. From the break of day, when sounds begin to carry up from the Tarahumara houses scattered in the valleys below, to the stillness of evening, when it is hard to tell if a voice comes from just below or from miles away, the tranquility of the canyon makes it hard to leave.

Tarahumara Homes

Numerous hiking trails lead from the hotel, and cycling or horse riding are also available nearby. A small Tarahumara settlement is within easy walking distance, although tourists should remember that these are people’s private homes. On the other hand, you may choose to just stay put, enjoy the views from the balcony, and experience a peace unknown elsewhere.

Hotel Mirador

Thursday, July 12, 2012

South of the Border: Ex-Pats in Mexico Share Their Thoughts About Safety


 I wrote the piece below last year but it was never published due to closures in the magazine industry.

Headlines warn to stay away from Mexico, telling of drug cartels that roam the streets, killing anyone who gets in their way… including tourists. A recent article in the San Francisco Chronicle reported the violence has escalated. With killings in Acapulco and the bombing of a Guadalajara nightclub, the message is clear: visitors are also in danger.
Yet Mexico remains a popular destination for those relocating from the United States. I spoke with a number of expats to get their feelings about the dangers of Mexico. Did safety concerns play a part in their decision to move to Mexico, or their choice of location? Has the violence created any problems in their daily life? Their answers offered an interesting contrast to what the media has been saying.

Baja California (Photo courtesy of www.morguefile.com)
 
When people think of Baja, they think of Tijuana. But author Melinda Bates has lived in Baja California since 2006, and loves it: “It's beautiful, affordable, and has a different rhythm of life.” Baja California Sur is one of the lowest crime spots in Mexico. In addition to the tourist spots of Los Cabos, the region offers art, history, diving, hot springs, and hiking. Is there crime? Of course, but not enough to interfere with Melinda’s enjoyment of Mexican life.
Then there are the expats who have chosen to live in Tijuana itself. Mary-Ellen* moved across the border from San Diego just six months ago. A single female, nearing sixty, many would say that she is mad, but Mary-Ellen doubts that she will ever return to the States. As for safety: “I drive a car and use public transportation and had no problems. I have encountered more weirdos when using the San Diego trolley.”
The sense of safety is universal among the expats I spoke to. Sid Grosvenor, a former Dallas cop, moved to Guadalajara after the death of his first wife. He remarried and moved to Lake Chapala where he works as a realtor in the expat community. He comments, “As a former police officer I was impressed with the low crime rate at Lake Chapala. I spend more time explaining that the Lake Chapala area is still very safe. Our ladies here feel safe to walk in our towns and villages alone (even after dark).” Most locals he knows are horrified by the violence in the US, and he recalls how his Mexican mother-in-law would insist on praying over him before he traveled north to visit family and friends.
Michele Kinnon and her husband felt safe enough to move their entire family to Mexico. In 2004, they came to Playa del Carmen with their young children. The attractions were numerous: an investment in a growing city, a global atmosphere in which to raise their children, and an overall higher standard of living. Years later, they still do not regret their decision. “As a woman and a mother, at no time have I felt unsafe or concerned for the well-being of my children.” Michele works as a realtor. Although she has seen a few people decide against relocation to Mexico, the effect on her business has been minimal. “Most of our buyers are already familiar with this region and realize that drug violence in Monterrey will have no impact on their lifestyle in Playa del Carmen.”

The Mayan Riviera (Photo courtesy of www.morguefile.com)
Everyone I spoke with agreed that the media has failed to put the crime in Mexico within any larger context. Melinda Bates says, “The media has been very irresponsible in their reporting of violence in Mexico. They seem to think all places are the same, when in fact Mexico is a very large country. There is crime where I live now - just as there was crime where I lived in Washington DC - but no one says ‘don't go to Washington 'cause it's so dangerous!’”
There is also a sense that they are not at risk from drug cartels: “Since I'm not planning to be in East Tijuana at 3am in a Hummer trying to score dope, I feel quite safe!” (Melinda Bates)
Michele adds, “Is there violence in Mexico? Yes. Thinking that crime does not exist in any country would be naïve and unrealistic.” Nevertheless, the crime she has witnessed has been limited to petty theft. At no time has she ever felt that her children’s safety might be threatened.
So what tips would these expats offer to anyone considering a move to Mexico?
Melinda suggests, “We live a low key life, drive an old car, don't flash money around, don't wear much jewelry. That would be good advice for many places.”
Sid Grosvenor agrees: “The usual tips apply here (don't flash money, lock your homes, be alert to your surroundings.) Use common sense, but don't live in fear.”
Michele Kinnon offers the same advice that she would offer anywhere: “Doing your homework before you move your family anywhere in the world is a good investment of your time. Making sure the area you move to is safe and will provide you with the level of infrastructure that your family needs to live happily is essential.”

* Requested that last name be withheld.

Tuesday, December 13, 2011

Adventure Travel in Mexico's Copper Canyon


Just one of the fabulous views in the Copper Canyon

If the beaches of Mexico are a little too touristy for your liking, not to mention reminiscent of a bad MTV spring break special, you will want to head further north in your search for relaxation and adventure. The Barranca del Cobre, or Copper Canyon, offers endless opportunities for hiking, mountain biking, horseback riding, rock climbing, rafting, and more, in an area that dwarfs the Grand Canyon.

The Barranca del Cobre is a series of interconnected canyons located in the state of Chihuahua, part of the Sierra Madre range. Claims in guidebooks vary from its being four to more than seven times larger than its US rival. So remote are parts of the region that the area was not properly mapped until 1986. Today, it remains blissfully serene, home to the Tarahumara, Mexico’s largest native population, who have lived here for thousands of years. Instantly recognizable by their colorful clothing and distinctive footwear, they continue to live in dwellings that are built into the sides of the canyon walls.

Tarahumara homes in the canyon walls

Your trip will undoubtedly begin in the small town of Creel, known to tourists as the gateway to the Copper Canyon region. In addition to a few small hotels and a town square that provides delightful opportunities for people watching, you will find a number of shops geared towards the adventure traveler. Here you can rent mountain bikes, buy maps, and find a guide. The cost of renting a fully equipped mountain bike for one day is about 180 pesos ($14), a small price to pay for what is considered some of the best and most challenging biking in the world. The 50 kilometer la Onza, (Copper Canyon Race) attracts hundreds of racers every July, as does the Cristo Rey race in September. 

Street in Creel

If rock climbing or rappelling are more to your liking, there are some excellent opportunities within a short drive of Creel. In fact, the Cueva de Leones offers some of the best hard climbing in the region, all within walking distance of town. But remember, a map is essential if you plan to explore the area without a guide. Trails are not signposted; they simply branch off in every direction – a spider web of pathways across thousands of square miles. To hike to the bottom and back will take several days so be sure to have sufficient food and a means of purifying water. A better option is to join one of the guided trips that are available - Amigo Trails Travel and Umarike Expeditions both have offices in Creel.

Trails vary from short and relatively easy day rides (or hikes) to extremely strenuous multi-day trips. If you choose one of the latter, whether on foot or on bike, be sure that you are fit enough to manage the changes in altitude. In addition to the risk of minor altitude sickness (the canyons range in depth from a little over 4000 feet to 6100 feet), trips to the base frequently involve tricky river crossings. The area’s remoteness means this is no time for false bravado. However, hiking is one of the best ways to experience the canyon’s magnificent vistas and to truly sense their greatness.

Whatever means you choose to make your way through the Canyon, you will be treated to a wonderful glimpse of life untouched. Home to more than 290 species of birds, it is a twitcher’s paradise. Waterfalls and incredible rock formations lay seemingly at every turn, and you will often see deer and black bears. This is one trip where you will definitely want to have your camera with you. 

Mulatto tree - one example of the fascinating flora within the canyon

The Copper Canyon is a largely unspoiled, natural wonder that offers adventure seekers a chance to enjoy the excitement and the beauty of one of North America’s lesser known treasures. From scenic vistas to rocky trails, the Copper Canyon is one trip you won’t forget.

Tuesday, June 7, 2011

Tarahumara Girl




The sun helped to lessen the chill of the late December afternoon as we started down the rocky path from our hotel, which stood on the edge of the Barrancas del Cobre, the Copper Canyon. Turning a corner, we saw a young Tarahumara girl. She held out her hands to reveal several quartz rocks. We agreed to buy two in return for a photograph; after selecting our rocks and exchanging money, she solemnly posed for the camera.

Continuing down the trail, we were aware of her following us, no doubt heading to the row of tiny houses below. Sensing her frustration at being behind two dawdling tourists, we moved to one side so that she could pass.

As if a tiny dynamo had been triggered, she was off… hopping, skipping, racing over the uneven rocks with the agility of a mountain goat. My husband and I watched in amazement, impressed by her speed.

Suddenly, the girl stopped, now some one hundred yards or so along the trail. She turned, glanced up at us, and in a moment I will never forget, broke into an enormous grin. Laughing, she turned and continued on her journey as we ambled behind.