Wednesday, November 7, 2012

One Crazy Kyoto Day - Part One

As a break from talking about monkeys and apes, I plan to spend the next few days sharing the crazy events that all fell into one day back in 1997, while Nic and I were in Japan. Looking back through some old photos brought back a bunch of memories, and I promise, this all happened in one day.

Let me start with a little background. After college, I spent three years in Yamanashi, Japan, on the JET programme. I was in a wonderful small rural town, and taught at a junior high school there. During my time in Japan, I met my now-husband Nic. He was also on the JET programme in Yamanashi. In 1997, we decided to take a trip down to Kyoto after Christmas. Kyoto is an absolutely wonderful city. Some people prefer the 24 hour nonstop atmosphere of Tokyo, but for me, you can't beat Kyoto with its sense of history.

So there we were, New Year's Eve, 1997...

I should start by saying that we had driven to Kyoto, a fact that caused our Japanese friends to pause in amazement. Why not just take the train? For the simple reason that this gave us a bit more freedom to explore the city's surroundings. If you drive up into the mountains around Kyoto, you come across some delightful villages and temples which you would miss if you had to rely purely on public transport.

Yes, I had much less hair then.
We did spend quite a bit of time exploring the city, famous for its numerous temples. My advice if you ever visit: by all means, take some time to see the "big" ones - Kiyomizudera (Pure Water), Kinkakuji (Golden Pavilion), Sanjusandgendo, for starters; each has a flavor all of its own and to just visit one would be to miss out. But also take the time to visit some of the lesser known ones. I followed the tradition of many Japanese tourists and purchased a goshuin, a small book in which you can collect calligraphy and stamps at each temple. During my time in Japan, I amassed several of these small books. They are easy to pack and carry, and you have a wonderful souvenir of the individual stamps from each temple you visit.

And Nic had a little more hair back then.

We also spent some time happily wandering around the old street of the Gion district, catching the occasional glimpse of a geiko (the local name for geisha) rushing between appointments in the rain.

But since it was to be our final New Year in Japan, we decided to drive up into the hills to see some of the other temples and shrines as they prepared for New Year.

So armed with a map and a sense of adventure, off we went....

Now I will tell you about the drive there and back tomorrow, because that is a story in itself, but for now, I will leave you with a few photos of the preparations for New Year.


Ringing the bell as a prayer offering




Come back tomorrow for Part 2 - there'll be monkeys....

Many thanks to those who have already donated to my IndieGoGo campaign for primate volunteer work in South Africa. To read more about the project, or to donate, click here

Thursday, November 1, 2012

Why Primates? Why me? Why Now?

Image courtesy of www.morguephoto.com


Did you have a passion as a kid? Mine was apes. I could spend hours watching the gorillas and chimps at the Aspinall parks in Kent, where I grew up. I wanted to learn more about them. My college friends even said that I was most likely to be trekking in the jungles saving apes in my future.
But I didn't believe in myself enough to follow that path. Instead, I went to grad school, worked, married, and settled down. Admittedly, I didn't exactly do that in a conventional way, but I knew I wasn't a scientist so what could I do?
As it turns out, I could and can do a lot. You see I write. I write for a living. I write about things that fascinate me. And I write to teach others. I've authored several books, written for encylopedias, magazines, and more. 
So now it's time.
It's time to believe in myself, believe in my dreams, and write about apes. 
I'm heading to South Africa. That's an important point - no matter how much funding I am able to raise here, I am going to South Africa in the spring of 2013 and I will be volunteering at a primate rescue facility. 
So where does IndieGoGo come in? Simple.
I can afford to spend some time at one facility, but the more I raise, the longer I can stay and the more research I can. Raising extra funds will allow me to spend time at two facilities, including Jane Goodall's Chimp Eden, where I can not only volunteer but undertake an in-depth primate education program, learning about chimp habitats, rehabilitation, conservation, and so on.
With that extra time, experience, and research, I can produce a better result:
  • a book of photographs from my stay, illustrating conservation programes in South Africa
  • a non-fiction book about my time there and about the importance of primate conservation programs 
  • a slideshow and educational program which I can give at local schools and community groups
To learn more about my IndieGoGo campaign, click here

I'll be posting updates on this blog in the coming months, and will be starting a private blog for funders during my trip.

Monday, October 29, 2012

Get Ready for Something Big

I haven't been posting here much lately because I have been busy researching and making plans. As you may remember, earlier this year I was feeling quite down about my recent lack of travel, an impeding 40th birthday, and a sense that I have not followed many of my dreams.

I am please to tell you that I have decided to put some plans into action, and on Thursday, November 1, I will be making an announcement about future plans. It will involve some serious travel and some serious fun, not to mention some serious dreams coming true.

So be sure to check back then and in the coming months for updates.

Saturday, July 28, 2012

Hotel Mirador, Mexico's Copper Canyon


Few hotels inspire you to sleep with the curtains open, let alone to get up before the crack of dawn while you’re on vacation. But you won’t want to miss the sunrise if you are staying at the Hotel Mirador in Mexico’s Barrancas del Cobre (Copper Canyon).

Watching the sunrise from our room.

Built into the wall of one of the area’s multiple canyons, all rooms at the Mirador face the same way, providing magnificent views that stretch for miles. The décor is simple and comfortable, designed to reflect the local style; but it is the region’s nature that makes a stay here feel truly luxurious. From the break of day, when sounds begin to carry up from the Tarahumara houses scattered in the valleys below, to the stillness of evening, when it is hard to tell if a voice comes from just below or from miles away, the tranquility of the canyon makes it hard to leave.

Tarahumara Homes

Numerous hiking trails lead from the hotel, and cycling or horse riding are also available nearby. A small Tarahumara settlement is within easy walking distance, although tourists should remember that these are people’s private homes. On the other hand, you may choose to just stay put, enjoy the views from the balcony, and experience a peace unknown elsewhere.

Hotel Mirador

Thursday, July 12, 2012

South of the Border: Ex-Pats in Mexico Share Their Thoughts About Safety


 I wrote the piece below last year but it was never published due to closures in the magazine industry.

Headlines warn to stay away from Mexico, telling of drug cartels that roam the streets, killing anyone who gets in their way… including tourists. A recent article in the San Francisco Chronicle reported the violence has escalated. With killings in Acapulco and the bombing of a Guadalajara nightclub, the message is clear: visitors are also in danger.
Yet Mexico remains a popular destination for those relocating from the United States. I spoke with a number of expats to get their feelings about the dangers of Mexico. Did safety concerns play a part in their decision to move to Mexico, or their choice of location? Has the violence created any problems in their daily life? Their answers offered an interesting contrast to what the media has been saying.

Baja California (Photo courtesy of www.morguefile.com)
 
When people think of Baja, they think of Tijuana. But author Melinda Bates has lived in Baja California since 2006, and loves it: “It's beautiful, affordable, and has a different rhythm of life.” Baja California Sur is one of the lowest crime spots in Mexico. In addition to the tourist spots of Los Cabos, the region offers art, history, diving, hot springs, and hiking. Is there crime? Of course, but not enough to interfere with Melinda’s enjoyment of Mexican life.
Then there are the expats who have chosen to live in Tijuana itself. Mary-Ellen* moved across the border from San Diego just six months ago. A single female, nearing sixty, many would say that she is mad, but Mary-Ellen doubts that she will ever return to the States. As for safety: “I drive a car and use public transportation and had no problems. I have encountered more weirdos when using the San Diego trolley.”
The sense of safety is universal among the expats I spoke to. Sid Grosvenor, a former Dallas cop, moved to Guadalajara after the death of his first wife. He remarried and moved to Lake Chapala where he works as a realtor in the expat community. He comments, “As a former police officer I was impressed with the low crime rate at Lake Chapala. I spend more time explaining that the Lake Chapala area is still very safe. Our ladies here feel safe to walk in our towns and villages alone (even after dark).” Most locals he knows are horrified by the violence in the US, and he recalls how his Mexican mother-in-law would insist on praying over him before he traveled north to visit family and friends.
Michele Kinnon and her husband felt safe enough to move their entire family to Mexico. In 2004, they came to Playa del Carmen with their young children. The attractions were numerous: an investment in a growing city, a global atmosphere in which to raise their children, and an overall higher standard of living. Years later, they still do not regret their decision. “As a woman and a mother, at no time have I felt unsafe or concerned for the well-being of my children.” Michele works as a realtor. Although she has seen a few people decide against relocation to Mexico, the effect on her business has been minimal. “Most of our buyers are already familiar with this region and realize that drug violence in Monterrey will have no impact on their lifestyle in Playa del Carmen.”

The Mayan Riviera (Photo courtesy of www.morguefile.com)
Everyone I spoke with agreed that the media has failed to put the crime in Mexico within any larger context. Melinda Bates says, “The media has been very irresponsible in their reporting of violence in Mexico. They seem to think all places are the same, when in fact Mexico is a very large country. There is crime where I live now - just as there was crime where I lived in Washington DC - but no one says ‘don't go to Washington 'cause it's so dangerous!’”
There is also a sense that they are not at risk from drug cartels: “Since I'm not planning to be in East Tijuana at 3am in a Hummer trying to score dope, I feel quite safe!” (Melinda Bates)
Michele adds, “Is there violence in Mexico? Yes. Thinking that crime does not exist in any country would be naïve and unrealistic.” Nevertheless, the crime she has witnessed has been limited to petty theft. At no time has she ever felt that her children’s safety might be threatened.
So what tips would these expats offer to anyone considering a move to Mexico?
Melinda suggests, “We live a low key life, drive an old car, don't flash money around, don't wear much jewelry. That would be good advice for many places.”
Sid Grosvenor agrees: “The usual tips apply here (don't flash money, lock your homes, be alert to your surroundings.) Use common sense, but don't live in fear.”
Michele Kinnon offers the same advice that she would offer anywhere: “Doing your homework before you move your family anywhere in the world is a good investment of your time. Making sure the area you move to is safe and will provide you with the level of infrastructure that your family needs to live happily is essential.”

* Requested that last name be withheld.

Thursday, May 17, 2012

Back in the CCCP

Those of you familiar with the Cyrillic alphabet will know that CCCP stands for Сою́з Сове́тских Социалисти́ческих Респу́блик (or as we know it, the USSR). The Soviet Union may be long gone, but its varied peoples and cultures live on. 


In the past decade or so, Thanet has seen a large influx of asylum seekers, refugees, and immigrants from the former Soviet nations, but it was during my recent trip back to England that I really saw evidence of their culture putting down new roots. Two trips to weekend markets revealed stalls selling baklava and other Eastern European pastries, but it was a casual walk from my parent's house to town which offered the greatest revelation - a parked car emblazoned with advertising for CCCP, a new restaurant. Ever eager for a new culinary experience, I stopped by with Nic and my parents for lunch on New Year's Eve.


The restaurant itself is fairly small, and seems to have been segmented into three tiny rooms, no doubt a result of adding on more space as the neighboring properties became available. The television played what appeared to be a form of talent show, with small children singing alongside a group of grannies in traditional garb. We were mesmerized.


In chatting to our waiter/barman/owner, we discovered that the restaurant was owned by Belarussian immigrants. He was keen to make suggestions regarding the menu, and we were eager to follow his advice. Mum and I each had the wild mushroom soup, followed by a shared Farmer's Snack platter of bread, meats, and pickles. Much as I love mushrooms, my previous experience of mushroom soup was limited to something from a can. This freshly-made soup, however, was delicious - creamy, full of flavor. Nic, realizing that this may be his only chance to visit the restaurant during his trip, decided to try the Wild Boar, while my dad had the pork fillet. We all had nothing but praise for the food. And to drink? Despite the extensive selection of vodka and brandy, we knew that we would be celebrating New Year later and so chose to wash everything down with giant mugs of kvass, a bread beer which has an overwhelmingly yeasty smell but a surprisingly refreshing flavor. 




After posing for a pic (they like to post pics of their happy customers on their Facebook page), we were off on our merry way again, bellies full of good food and ready to tell everyone that they needed to cast aside their images of borscht and cold potatoes to visit CCCP for some delicious cultural education.



Saturday, May 5, 2012

That was then; this is now.

I've been pondering how to write this for the last week or so, but the confusion intensified when I came across some pictures taken during a trip to Paris back in 1999. Yes, that's me in the photo below, cooling off outside the Louvre.


I have many photos and stories from that trip, so many years ago, that I would love to share with you. I also have so many stories from Japan, Hong Kong, New Zealand and other spots I've been lucky enough to see. Then there are the tales from my recent trip to England, including the influx of Russian culture and cuisine to my hometown, and an expert-guided behind the scenes tour of the Ray Harryhausen exhibition in London. I am dying to tell you how safe Mexico is, and to share with you a New Year's Eve in an isolated Japanese country-western bar (think silver tassels and a bizarre rendition of "I Will Always Love You").

But a part of me feels like a fraud. Much of this has been triggered by my approaching 40th birthday, which has set me thinking about where I thought I would be by now. Fortunately, I realized that the corporate life was not for me and escaped before even entering it, disregarding career advice to become an accountant because it was a "nice secure job until I had kids". Instead, I have carved my own path, a curvy non-traditional path that has included travel, academia, teaching, coaching, and now writing. Along the way, I have experienced things that many never will, and for that I am ever grateful.

So why the fraud?

Part of that curvy path has included marriage (to a wonderful man who "gets" me), a mortgage, and two dogs. One of the consequences has been an inability to travel as much as I would have liked in recent years, or at least the inability to travel other than around the U.S. and home to England. Mexico was a pleasant exception.

So now I am feeling that I still have so many places to go and see, and I have been pondering ways to make that happen while still making space for husband's job (which keeps us tied to one location) and mortgage payments.

Over the last few weeks, Nic and I have been looking at ways for me to travel more and to see some of the things I have dreamed of: sunrise over the Ganges from a train on my way to Darjeeling, the Skeleton Coast of Namibia, the frescoes of Florence. It has been rather overwhelming to consider all the possibilities, until my ever-sensible hubby reminded me that I don't have to try and do it ALL in one trip.

In college, when we were wondering about our futures, one friend labelled me most likely to be found among the gorillas in Africa. My love for all things primate-related is the reason I visit the Aspinall parks back in England and spend hours watching the chimps and gorillas. It is the reason I read anything I can get my hands on by key anthropologists in the world of primatology. It is the reason Dian Fossey and Jane Goodall are my heroes, and why hearing Jane Goodall speak last year was an absolute highlight.

And so, that is the dream I am hoping to make reality within the next year or so. I am looking into several options, considering funding, potential for writing, and most importantly, potential for me to feel as if I am once more a true traveler. I am also considering some other temporary work options, which may come to fruition, but in the meantime, expect to see updates over the next few months as I investigate ways in which I can make my dream come true.